By Annette Lynch
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Extra info for Changing Fashion: A Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Cultural Meaning
Fashion 3/7/07 12:04 pm Page 24 Changing Fashion consumers, and create differing products for individuals located within the various strata of Maslovian need. One of the more successful marketing models based to a large extent on Maslow’s theory was the VALSTM framework. Maslow’s hierarchy was used to distinguish the original VALS groups and David Reisman’s The Lonely Crowd (1965), an important tract on sociology at the time, influenced the naming of the original VALS consumer groups. Developed and managed originally by Stanford Research Institute (now SRI International), and currently by spinout SRI Consulting Business Intelligence (SRIC-BI), their first system segmented consumer types by their values and lifestyles, hence the acronym VALS.
White Americans both denounced and accepted blatant racism during this period, with many moderate white Americans seeking ways to maintain the status quo, yet appear progressive in terms of racial equality. The Native American hobby movement, as well as other movements, focused on appreciation of black culture, allowed the middle-class white American to both express respect for the authentic ‘Other,’ yet keep a racial distance – thus bringing into harmony the racist elements of segregation and the growing awareness that peoples of color deserved respect and equal rights.
By presenting themselves in a ritualized ceremonial context dressed as Indians, white hobbyists express the in-between shifting status of Indians in this post-war period, when they are struggling to gain equal status in the workplace. Respect is given to ‘old-fashioned, authentic’ Indian culture by the hobbyist, but space in the real world of work is closed, as these Indians are presented as living in an idealized ‘Other’ world, with no real place in this one. Again, the influence on fashion occurred as these themes are integrated into everyday western- inspired dress styles as well as major popular culture trends such as the Davy Crockett (Anderson, 1996) trend of the 1950s.